I don't think they make Chore Boy pure copper scrubbers anymore. I've never used JB bore paste, and I don't think I want to because I don't want to erode the bore. What are my options?

I just got some chore boy copper scrubbers at my local supermarket. Last weekend in fact.

Chore Boy. You can also try a bronze brush.

CDF

I have a few of these and will cut a patch from the sheet and scrub the bore - always comes out black no matter how clean the bore was. Use with caution as the old ones I had would remove bluing as well.

VooDoo

Patience and do an initial cleaning while the firearm is still warm.

I agree the barrel still being warm if possible. Stuff comes off easier.

CDF

You folks are pretty awesome. Just a note on the Chore Boy: A couple of years ago I bought a pack of two from a store. I finally dug them out to use and decided to read all the fine print on the package. Bad news; they're copper coated steel, not pure copper. I tried to order pure copper online and could only find the coated steel version. I'll continue to search. Voodoo, thanks for the heads up on the Hoppe's Quick Clean.

Side note: I was looking for Copper scrubby things like the Chore Boy, and found some in a discount store (Willy's Bargains, or some such), made under the Comet label. Turns out that they, too, have steel in them.

Chore Boy Ultimate Copper seems to be pure copper, according to their web site: https://choreboyscrubbers.com/chore-boy ... ring-pads/
I'm guessing here, but it may be that they have more than one grade of scrubber.

Back in the day, I bought six. Still have three unopened. I'll pass them on to my son.

CDF

BearPaws, thanks for the link. I found them on amazon and ordered some.

Here's how I got the lead out of my revolvers.

If we're talking about the barrel, then I would take one of my cast bullets, insert it into the muzzle, and tap it through with a brass rod and brass hammer.

If we're talking about the chambers, then the same thing applies; take a semi-wadcutter or tapered cast bullet that's juuuust too big to push through the exit-end of the particular chamber in the cylinder. Support the cylinder on top of a vise or similar, using terrycloths to keep from scratching things. Once you insert this slightly oversized cast bullet, tap it through with the brass rod/hammer.

Every time I've done this, things were lead-free.

And *THEN*.....

Find out why your bore is getting lead-fouled. There is a reason, and it's usually due to one or more of these three things when using cast bullets.

1.) Lead alloy is too hard to achieve proper bullet obturation.
2.) Improper type and quantity of bullet lube.
3.) Bullet is too small, thus resulting in gas-cutting.

For handgun applications, generally, the softer the lead alloy, the better. Same goes for bullet lube. And, better to oversize your bullet a little bit than undersize it; the right sizing die can take care of that.

The point is well taken about the proper cast alloy, the proper lube, and to make it interesting, the velocity for that alloy.

CDF

Ah, forgot that; thanks, CDFingers. The point that you make regarding velocity is far more true for rifles than for revolvers, by and large, given the barrel lengths. But it is true that trying to push a cast bullet too fast for its softness can cause leading. So, for rifles, I'd say with BHN 12 (wheel weight alloy), keep it at about 2000 fps or below, and you should be fine. I found that 2500 fps does best with BHN 15-16 and plenty of NRA 50/50 or Liquid Alox/Xlox bullet lube. The folks over at LSStuff.com can help out with that; I use their bullet lubes with success.