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INVICTVS138 wrote: Sun Jun 25, 2023 1:03 pm
cooper wrote:I haven't used Unique, but I'm using Universal right now. Most of what I've read says they are very similar. Anyone with experience with both?
Universal burns Dirty with lots of particles left in the bore on hot magnum loads.I used quite a bit of it during the pandemic. 2400 & h-110 burns much cleaner.


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Good to know. It seemed dirty to me, but I figured I was doing something wrong.

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cooper wrote:
INVICTVS138 wrote: Sun Jun 25, 2023 1:03 pm
cooper wrote:I haven't used Unique, but I'm using Universal right now. Most of what I've read says they are very similar. Anyone with experience with both?
Universal burns Dirty with lots of particles left in the bore on hot magnum loads.I used quite a bit of it during the pandemic. 2400 & h-110 burns much cleaner.


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Good to know. It seemed dirty to me, but I figured I was doing something wrong.
I thought so too, but I had a lot of experience shooting cleaner burners before the pandemic with 2400 & h-110.

I ran out of 2400 which was my go to for hot .357s I played around with universal for awhile until I scored a decent amount of h-110. I like 2400 better; but h-110 is cleaner than universal for magnum loads. Universal works and is accurate, but just dirty. It also made a weird smell with the bullet lube I used on my cast bullets.


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For a powder that's been around for so long...it's interesting that I never did develop a load using Unique. Ended up settling on other powders for my particular applications. Titegroup is my go-to for the bigger-bore, non-magnum loads, e. g. .44 Special and .45 Colt, due to its position-insensitivity in those bigger cases. It's also my primary powder for .45 ACP, in which it burns quite cleanly. For the magnum handgun loads, it's primarily 2400 and now Accurate 11FS as well.

I actually have a pound of Unique, and I've been meaning to get around to trying it. Probably will do so in a ".45 Colt +P" load, because the guns I have will take it (Rossi 92, Ruger Super Redhawk 454), and because it'd make for a cleaner-burning load.

For those who have used Unique, how well does it do in the .38 Special, including the +P loads?
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Good to know about the Titegroup CowboyT. I'll try that for some 44 special. I like my wheelgun and lever gun in 44 mag, but most of the rounds I'm going to put down them are going to be specials or light 44 mags. I tried a light load today using Universal 7.2 grains. Terrible accuracy -- holes all over the paper in no discernible pattern even though it was just 7 yards. I'll try 10 more rounds tomorrow with the same load to see if I was just off -- but I haven't been that "off" in a long time. Darn, another reason to load and shoot.

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cooper wrote: Tue Jun 27, 2023 11:09 pm Good to know about the Titegroup CowboyT. I'll try that for some 44 special. I like my wheelgun and lever gun in 44 mag, but most of the rounds I'm going to put down them are going to be specials or light 44 mags. I tried a light load today using Universal 7.2 grains. Terrible accuracy -- holes all over the paper in no discernible pattern even though it was just 7 yards. I'll try 10 more rounds tomorrow with the same load to see if I was just off -- but I haven't been that "off" in a long time. Darn, another reason to load and shoot.
Cooper, are you using your own boolits or factory made?
“The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing,”

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tonguengroover wrote: Tue Jun 27, 2023 11:42 pm
cooper wrote: Tue Jun 27, 2023 11:09 pm Good to know about the Titegroup CowboyT. I'll try that for some 44 special. I like my wheelgun and lever gun in 44 mag, but most of the rounds I'm going to put down them are going to be specials or light 44 mags. I tried a light load today using Universal 7.2 grains. Terrible accuracy -- holes all over the paper in no discernible pattern even though it was just 7 yards. I'll try 10 more rounds tomorrow with the same load to see if I was just off -- but I haven't been that "off" in a long time. Darn, another reason to load and shoot.
Cooper, are you using your own boolits or factory made?
Factory. Missouri Bullet Company ".44 Smasher". It's .430 diameter, 240 grain RNFP, Brinell 18. I know it's a hard bullet, so maybe not obturating well with lower power loads??

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Loaded up a few today with my previously tested load: Universal 9.1 grains, Lead RNFP Brinell 18. Much more accurate. It was a typical shitty group for me -- 5 holes in 4" at 7 yards. That's me, not the gun or the ammo. Yesterday's didn't have anything you could call a group. I'll keep working on this. This is a nice feeling load. Plenty of oomph but nothing to flinch at. Wish I had a chronograph to know how fast the lead is flying.

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Yeah, the softer, the better. The hardest that I ever cast these days is BHN 12-13, and that includes .357M, .44M, and ".45 Colt Magnum". The mention of bullet size to your gun's chamber throat is good advice. Also, bullet obturation, along with proper bullet lube, helps not only with precision, but also with avoiding lead-fouling.

Case in point: when I was developing my .45 Colt Magnum load, I started with BHN 15-16, as according to Lee's Modern Reloading, that BHN was good for those pressures. Turns out that's not the case for handgun cartridges. I had patterns, not groups, starting with 20.5 grains of 2400 (about 28,000 PSI or so, per the books), and I'm a better shot than that. Also, lead-fouling was significant. I had to pound a bullet down the barrel to get it out, it was that bad. This proved to be the case until I got to 21.5 grains of 2400, when things tightened up massively. Lead-fouling almost entirely went bye-bye. So, I tried 22.0gr of 2400, and that tightened the groups up even a bit more, and lead-fouling went to zero. So, the lesson there was that about 30,000 PSI (the 21.5gr 2400 level) is where BHN 15-16 starts to obturate properly, and full obturation half a grain beyond that (the 22.0gr). Using interpolation, I determined the pressure of my 22.0gr load to be about 32,000 to 34,000 PSI, about the same as full-house .44 Magnum.

Based on these results, I generally would use the harder bullets, like 18 BHN, only for the .454 Casull-range loads.

However, not everyone is in a position to cast their own as I do. So, if you have 18 BHN, then I would recommend two things.

1.) Ensure that these bullets are at or very close to the max that will easily physically chamber in your gun when the round is assembled. Make a few dummy rounds to check this out. The closer you are to the width of the chamber's throat, the better.

2.) Hit those hard bullets with a decent coat of Liquid Alox/Xlox, enough to where they're somewhat ambered. See, that hard-wax bullet "lube" that the factory puts on there isn't worth a doggone thing. It's way too hard for handgun applications to be of any significant help. They use that useless hard wax for the same reason they cast those bullets at BHN 18 (shipping issues). Liquid Alox/Xlox, which I now use for everything cast, is much, much better (read: softer) for virtually all handgun applications. I use it in .38/357, .44 Spl/Mag, .45 Colt, and .45 ACP, with very good results. It will help some with those hard-cast bullets, too.
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I found that my own home cast 255 Gr 15 -16 (estimated) Brinnel Hardness did really well out of a carbine. Hard to say for sure as I’m more accurate with a carbine than a handgun at any given range. Im betting the extra barrel length & thus velocity helped them.

Like [mention]CowboyT [/mention] stated, I coated them in liquid alox.

I know it sounds counterintuitive, but I have had the best results with my own home, cast bullets.
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I use Missouri bullet company bullets as well - but I generally get the softest bullets in a caliber. (12-13) their 250 gr., .454 Cowboy bullets are excellent, as well as the 125 gr. .358 cowboy bullets. Especially, considering the hassle and moderate, safety concerns with home casting.


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CowboyT wrote: Wed Jun 28, 2023 3:41 pm Yeah, the softer, the better. The hardest that I ever cast these days is BHN 12-13, and that includes .357M, .44M, and ".45 Colt Magnum". The mention of bullet size to your gun's chamber throat is good advice. Also, bullet obturation, along with proper bullet lube, helps not only with precision, but also with avoiding lead-fouling.

Case in point: when I was developing my .45 Colt Magnum load, I started with BHN 15-16, as according to Lee's Modern Reloading, that BHN was good for those pressures. Turns out that's not the case for handgun cartridges. I had patterns, not groups, starting with 20.5 grains of 2400 (about 28,000 PSI or so, per the books), and I'm a better shot than that. Also, lead-fouling was significant. I had to pound a bullet down the barrel to get it out, it was that bad. This proved to be the case until I got to 21.5 grains of 2400, when things tightened up massively. Lead-fouling almost entirely went bye-bye. So, I tried 22.0gr of 2400, and that tightened the groups up even a bit more, and lead-fouling went to zero. So, the lesson there was that about 30,000 PSI (the 21.5gr 2400 level) is where BHN 15-16 starts to obturate properly, and full obturation half a grain beyond that (the 22.0gr). Using interpolation, I determined the pressure of my 22.0gr load to be about 32,000 to 34,000 PSI, about the same as full-house .44 Magnum.

Based on these results, I generally would use the harder bullets, like 18 BHN, only for the .454 Casull-range loads.

However, not everyone is in a position to cast their own as I do. So, if you have 18 BHN, then I would recommend two things.

1.) Ensure that these bullets are at or very close to the max that will easily physically chamber in your gun when the round is assembled. Make a few dummy rounds to check this out. The closer you are to the width of the chamber's throat, the better.

2.) Hit those hard bullets with a decent coat of Liquid Alox/Xlox, enough to where they're somewhat ambered. See, that hard-wax bullet "lube" that the factory puts on there isn't worth a doggone thing. It's way too hard for handgun applications to be of any significant help. They use that useless hard wax for the same reason they cast those bullets at BHN 18 (shipping issues). Liquid Alox/Xlox, which I now use for everything cast, is much, much better (read: softer) for virtually all handgun applications. I use it in .38/357, .44 Spl/Mag, .45 Colt, and .45 ACP, with very good results. It will help some with those hard-cast bullets, too.
Thanks CowboyT. I'm going to order some softer bullets too and and see how that goes.

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Pyrotechnics from last night. Legal explosives.
These were 3 years old at least and I was getting ansy about having old artillery shells in the house. So yeah, it was a blast.
Only 1.75 inch but they make a decent bang.
I think next year I'll upgrade to 3 inch and add some reports.
Only one neighbor said something. F'ing commie. Lol
“The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing,”
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cooper wrote: Wed Jul 05, 2023 9:32 pm
CowboyT wrote: Wed Jun 28, 2023 3:41 pm Yeah, the softer, the better. The hardest that I ever cast these days is BHN 12-13, and that includes .357M, .44M, and ".45 Colt Magnum". The mention of bullet size to your gun's chamber throat is good advice. Also, bullet obturation, along with proper bullet lube, helps not only with precision, but also with avoiding lead-fouling.

Case in point: when I was developing my .45 Colt Magnum load, I started with BHN 15-16, as according to Lee's Modern Reloading, that BHN was good for those pressures. Turns out that's not the case for handgun cartridges. I had patterns, not groups, starting with 20.5 grains of 2400 (about 28,000 PSI or so, per the books), and I'm a better shot than that. Also, lead-fouling was significant. I had to pound a bullet down the barrel to get it out, it was that bad. This proved to be the case until I got to 21.5 grains of 2400, when things tightened up massively. Lead-fouling almost entirely went bye-bye. So, I tried 22.0gr of 2400, and that tightened the groups up even a bit more, and lead-fouling went to zero. So, the lesson there was that about 30,000 PSI (the 21.5gr 2400 level) is where BHN 15-16 starts to obturate properly, and full obturation half a grain beyond that (the 22.0gr). Using interpolation, I determined the pressure of my 22.0gr load to be about 32,000 to 34,000 PSI, about the same as full-house .44 Magnum.

Based on these results, I generally would use the harder bullets, like 18 BHN, only for the .454 Casull-range loads.

However, not everyone is in a position to cast their own as I do. So, if you have 18 BHN, then I would recommend two things.

1.) Ensure that these bullets are at or very close to the max that will easily physically chamber in your gun when the round is assembled. Make a few dummy rounds to check this out. The closer you are to the width of the chamber's throat, the better.

2.) Hit those hard bullets with a decent coat of Liquid Alox/Xlox, enough to where they're somewhat ambered. See, that hard-wax bullet "lube" that the factory puts on there isn't worth a doggone thing. It's way too hard for handgun applications to be of any significant help. They use that useless hard wax for the same reason they cast those bullets at BHN 18 (shipping issues). Liquid Alox/Xlox, which I now use for everything cast, is much, much better (read: softer) for virtually all handgun applications. I use it in .38/357, .44 Spl/Mag, .45 Colt, and .45 ACP, with very good results. It will help some with those hard-cast bullets, too.
Thanks CowboyT. I'm going to order some softer bullets too and and see how that goes.
A couple of links you might be interested in.

https://cowboybullets.com/

https://www.buffaloarms.com/reloading-s ... llets.html

https://rimrockbullets.com/xcart/
I ordered a case of optimism from Amazon, but porch pirates beat me to it. Still, chin-up.

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papajim2jordan wrote: Thu Jul 06, 2023 7:07 am
cooper wrote: Wed Jul 05, 2023 9:32 pm
CowboyT wrote: Wed Jun 28, 2023 3:41 pm Yeah, the softer, the better. The hardest that I ever cast these days is BHN 12-13, and that includes .357M, .44M, and ".45 Colt Magnum". The mention of bullet size to your gun's chamber throat is good advice. Also, bullet obturation, along with proper bullet lube, helps not only with precision, but also with avoiding lead-fouling.

Case in point: when I was developing my .45 Colt Magnum load, I started with BHN 15-16, as according to Lee's Modern Reloading, that BHN was good for those pressures. Turns out that's not the case for handgun cartridges. I had patterns, not groups, starting with 20.5 grains of 2400 (about 28,000 PSI or so, per the books), and I'm a better shot than that. Also, lead-fouling was significant. I had to pound a bullet down the barrel to get it out, it was that bad. This proved to be the case until I got to 21.5 grains of 2400, when things tightened up massively. Lead-fouling almost entirely went bye-bye. So, I tried 22.0gr of 2400, and that tightened the groups up even a bit more, and lead-fouling went to zero. So, the lesson there was that about 30,000 PSI (the 21.5gr 2400 level) is where BHN 15-16 starts to obturate properly, and full obturation half a grain beyond that (the 22.0gr). Using interpolation, I determined the pressure of my 22.0gr load to be about 32,000 to 34,000 PSI, about the same as full-house .44 Magnum.

Based on these results, I generally would use the harder bullets, like 18 BHN, only for the .454 Casull-range loads.

However, not everyone is in a position to cast their own as I do. So, if you have 18 BHN, then I would recommend two things.

1.) Ensure that these bullets are at or very close to the max that will easily physically chamber in your gun when the round is assembled. Make a few dummy rounds to check this out. The closer you are to the width of the chamber's throat, the better.

2.) Hit those hard bullets with a decent coat of Liquid Alox/Xlox, enough to where they're somewhat ambered. See, that hard-wax bullet "lube" that the factory puts on there isn't worth a doggone thing. It's way too hard for handgun applications to be of any significant help. They use that useless hard wax for the same reason they cast those bullets at BHN 18 (shipping issues). Liquid Alox/Xlox, which I now use for everything cast, is much, much better (read: softer) for virtually all handgun applications. I use it in .38/357, .44 Spl/Mag, .45 Colt, and .45 ACP, with very good results. It will help some with those hard-cast bullets, too.
Thanks CowboyT. I'm going to order some softer bullets too and and see how that goes.
A couple of links you might be interested in.

https://cowboybullets.com/

https://www.buffaloarms.com/reloading-s ... llets.html

https://rimrockbullets.com/xcart/
This is great. Thanks, papajim.

Interesting -- the Rim Rock Bullets just say .38 or .44 but don't give actual diameter.

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