I haven't used CLP since I was in the Army, many moons ago.

I bought some at the gun show today and used it to clean my, salty, sandy ,muddy Remington 870 after yesterdays hunt. What a difference from the Hoppes crap I have been using. It just seems to make the dirt stick to a rag, lightly oil the surface and disappear. Not to mention the smell, it's pure nostalgia.

Anybody who hasn't tried it, check it out. I think the military has done a lot of research on this and got it right.

masonalannz wrote:I haven't used CLP since I was in the Army, many moons ago.

I bought some at the gun show today and used it to clean my, salty, sandy ,muddy Remington 870 after yesterdays hunt. What a difference from the Hoppes crap I have been using. It just seems to make the dirt stick to a rag, lightly oil the surface and disappear. Not to mention the smell, it's pure nostalgia.

Anybody who hasn't tried it, check it out. I think the military has done a lot of research on this and got it right.

I use Hoppe's a lot. I'll have to check out CLP.

masonalannz wrote:I haven't used CLP since I was in the Army, many moons ago.

I bought some at the gun show today and used it to clean my, salty, sandy ,muddy Remington 870 after yesterdays hunt. What a difference from the Hoppes crap I have been using. It just seems to make the dirt stick to a rag, lightly oil the surface and disappear. Not to mention the smell, it's pure nostalgia.

Anybody who hasn't tried it, check it out. I think the military has done a lot of research on this and got it right.

How is it on the plastic (various polymers) guns, blued surfaces and MIM parts ?

highdesert wrote:

masonalannz wrote:I haven't used CLP since I was in the Army, many moons ago.

I bought some at the gun show today and used it to clean my, salty, sandy ,muddy Remington 870 after yesterdays hunt. What a difference from the Hoppes crap I have been using. It just seems to make the dirt stick to a rag, lightly oil the surface and disappear. Not to mention the smell, it's pure nostalgia.

Anybody who hasn't tried it, check it out. I think the military has done a lot of research on this and got it right.

How is it on the plastic (various polymers) guns, blued surfaces and MIM parts ?

I can't comment on that other than to say that a good portion of the M16 is polymer/plastic and we never worried about it when cleaning them. The trigger housing in my 870 is polymer and I ain't concerned. YMMV.

Been using it for about a year (mostly polymer pistols) and have really liked, but, never had anything to compare it to. I find myself using it more for cleaning, wiping it down and then using a gun oil for light cleaning and light oiling before reassembly.
Actually used that, a stiff nylon brush and a boresnake to clean up my Mosin.

I've been using CLP for almost 10 years and it's great. It's actually the only cleaning agent approved for use on my Arsenal SGL21 from the factory. My mother used to hate when my dad would clean guns in the house mostly because of the stench of Hoppes #9. Once I introduced my dad to CLP, she couldn't even tel when we'd been cleaning.

I recently switched to Slip2000 EWL, and it is similarly awesome, buy seems to have increased rust resistance. It also doesn't dry out like CLP will, it stays somewhat wet for a very long time. Still no appreciable smell either.

CLP was in my toolbox for cleaning shortest time of any cleaning product. I didn't like the smell and I didn't like how everything was so oily after using it.

I swear on Ballistol and wondering if anybody else is using it and what do they think about it. That is my one and only cleaning/lubricating product for everything.
http://www.ballistol.com/

AmirMortal wrote:I've been using CLP for almost 10 years and it's great. It's actually the only cleaning agent approved for use on my Arsenal SGL21 from the factory. My mother used to hate when my dad would clean guns in the house mostly because of the stench of Hoppes #9. Once I introduced my dad to CLP, she couldn't even tel when we'd been cleaning.

I recently switched to Slip2000 EWL, and it is similarly awesome, buy seems to have increased rust resistance. It also doesn't dry out like CLP will, it stays somewhat wet for a very long time. Still no appreciable smell either.

Man, I love the smell of that stuff.

mvelimir wrote:CLP was in my toolbox for cleaning shortest time of any cleaning product. I didn't like the smell and I didn't like how everything was so oily after using it.

I swear on Ballistol and wondering if anybody else is using it and what do they think about it. That is my one and only cleaning/lubricating product for everything.
http://www.ballistol.com/

never heard of it. looks interesting.

mvelimir wrote:CLP was in my toolbox for cleaning shortest time of any cleaning product. I didn't like the smell and I didn't like how everything was so oily after using it.

I swear on Ballistol and wondering if anybody else is using it and what do they think about it. That is my one and only cleaning/lubricating product for everything.
http://www.ballistol.com/

I use both CLP and Ballistol. They're both wonder substances.

mark wrote:

mvelimir wrote:CLP was in my toolbox for cleaning shortest time of any cleaning product. I didn't like the smell and I didn't like how everything was so oily after using it.

I swear on Ballistol and wondering if anybody else is using it and what do they think about it. That is my one and only cleaning/lubricating product for everything.
http://www.ballistol.com/

never heard of it. looks interesting.

Ballistol is used by German Special Forces, US Coastal Guard and Navy Seals. Methinks that is pretty good endorsement.

I like my Breakfree. I use Hoppes to coat after cleaning.

I use simple green for cleaning, it's pretty amazing and I don't feel like I'm giving myself cancer when I use it.

Took the cosmoline right off my SKS.

Simple Green is great cleaning product, but you still need to rinse it good and lubricate with something. Balistol is bio-degradable and with no carcinogens. One of the Keiser's requirements for this product was to also clean and protect small scrapes and cuts for soldiers.

mvelimir wrote:Simple Green is great cleaning product, but you still need to rinse it good and lubricate with something. Balistol is bio-degradable and with no carcinogens. One of the Keiser's requirements for this product was to also clean and protect small scrapes and cuts for soldiers.

yeah, I use Hoppes gun oil after rinsing. It's a bit more work than using an all-in-one but on the other hand it's cheap and pleasant to use, and compared to the lengths I used to go to, it's mad easy.

I use CLP. Used to use Hoppes, but found CLP to be much easier for routine cleaning. I will have to check out Ballistol.

I've also used CLP in the Army for cleaning small arms - my beef with it is that the solid teflon particles tend to accumulate in hard to reach places after a while, and it seems to get worse in cold conditions. I think the mixture has enough cleaning and lubricating properties without the teflon particles, because solids like that tend to get pushed away by rubbing parts anyway.

I've found Hoppes to be quite a mild cleaner, it takes more swipes to actually remove burnt powder from metal but it supposedly has anti-corrosive materials in it.

KG-1 is quite effective especially for the barrel but it only cleans, doesn't lubricate.

At this stage I've given up on all-in-one solutions - the KG-1/Hoppes combo is good for me, I'm more concerned when it comes to lubes. Been experimenting with chain oil/gear oil mix which seems to work quite well (i.e. lube stays on), and they're pretty cheap.

AdAstra wrote:I've also used CLP in the Army for cleaning small arms - my beef with it is that the solid teflon particles tend to accumulate in hard to reach places after a while, and it seems to get worse in cold conditions. I think the mixture has enough cleaning and lubricating properties without the teflon particles, because solids like that tend to get pushed away by rubbing parts anyway.

I've found Hoppes to be quite a mild cleaner, it takes more swipes to actually remove burnt powder from metal but it supposedly has anti-corrosive materials in it.

KG-1 is quite effective especially for the barrel but it only cleans, doesn't lubricate.

At this stage I've given up on all-in-one solutions - the KG-1/Hoppes combo is good for me, I'm more concerned when it comes to lubes. Been experimenting with chain oil/gear oil mix which seems to work quite well (i.e. lube stays on), and they're pretty cheap.

I've also noticed that good old #9 takes a ton of patches to clean my Mosin. In fact, I don't bother trying for a clean patch, just a slightly discolored patch. I've NEVER gotten a truly clean patch from my Mosin.

Perhaps CLP would do a more thorough job (or at least just faster and with fewer patches) of initial cleaning, then I can finish up with a patch or two of #9 to make sure any "corrosive" salts are gone.

I’ve found Hoppe’s to be a better solvent for nitro powder fouling, which is the most common form of fouling in a firearm. Actually, I use a lot of Ed's Red because it cleans just as well or better than Hoppe's and is dirt cheap. CLP is an okay cleaner, and an excellent lubricant and preservative. Actually as a preservative, it has very few peers.

I like Breakfree CLP. Though when I do a complete detail cleaning of my Glock I use Hoppes Elite Gunscrubber.

Mkay. This may get wordy because gun solvent/lube became a major point of family contention in the last 5 years. No joke, big old arguments around each family gathering.

I had been using Hoppe's for years, and still do to clean my Revolver. For some reason, it takes grime off the bluing better than any of the others. It's not the BEST for ALL firearms, but it does get the job done clean and fast with blued steel. Major downside: you HAVE to get all excess off your firearm, or dust and crap will stick to the leftover lube, gumming up the works. On a revolver, this is not difficult.
I do not like that Hoppe's is not very good at repelling water. If I take this revolver hunting, I will be using my next recommendation.

Back in 2000, I discovered Rusty Duck thanks to a Black Powder hunter I hung out with. This is what I use on my pump and bolt shotguns. It dries to a slightly more cohesive grease, not tacky, and works like gangbusters to get all manner of residue out of the barrel, be it steel, lead, or copper. I do not recommend it for automatic pistols or rifles, because it tends to attract residue from each shot fired, resulting in gunky buildup after 300-400 shots. It also does a SPECTACULAR job of repelling water - and shotguns are my most likely weapon to be out in a lake, or the rain, or what have you. If you just spray on/wipe off a sheen of Rusty Duck, you can damn near dunk that firearm in a pond, and pull it out, then leave it be for days - there will be no rust.

Finally, for all my semi-autos, CLP. My uncle nearly throttled me for waiting to try this lube/solvent/cleaner/wax/polish/condiment. I bought a can finally in 2007, and I gotta admit, he was right. None of my autos are blued, and the CLP does a great job cleaning steel and chrome. It also leaves behind a thin, thin, thin sheen that lubes an auto up nicely. Finally, it does not seem to attract dirt at all.
The only beef I have with it is that, once again, it doesn't do nearly as good a job waterproofing as Rusty Duck. I had a S&W Sigma .40 for a while, and solely cleaned it with CLP. Went shooting with some friends one day, left the gun in its holster in my trunk, and a jug of water leaked all over it - as well as my Winchester 20 ga, which had been treated with the Duck.
The Sigma had grown some spots on the inside of the slide the next day. The Winchester was still flawless.
But I did often put 300+ rounds through that Sigma on a regular basis (until I got sick of the damn thing and sold it) at the range, and CLP never gummed up. It also works great on my wife's MK I Hi-Power, my SKS, and all my friend's firearms.

Frankly? I just keep all three around. If I absolutely HAD to decide on just one, it would be the CLP - but I'd still be on the lookout to acquire Rusty Duck.

ALSO!

Rusty Duck makes WD-40 look like kool-aid when it comes to getting corroded metal unfrozen. I used it on a powered gate chain in my backyard that had frozen absolutely solid for about thirteen inches. Spray, tap with hammer, spray again, leave it be for an hour. When I came back, that chain cracked back into flexibility no prob.

I like Hoppes because the bottle looks evil like scull and crossbone poison and the smell is awesom. But I'll try the Ballistol because it's biodegradable. See, liberals are flexible.

Our purpose behind SLiP2000™ was to give the American gun industry the best lubricants and cleaners on the market while addressing both human health and environmental issues, and we have. SLiP2000™ has been able to provide non-toxic, non-hazardous and biodegradable gun lubricants and cleaners that out perform anything else on the market and our revolutionary new ideas are changing the industry by continuing to improve on faster and safer ways to clean your weapons.

http://www.slip2000.com/aboutus.html
http://www.slip2000.com/lubricant_info.html

This is the stuff I've been using for a while, along with their accompanying gease. It's even better than CLP for me so far.
http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000-EWL.html

AmirMortal wrote:

Our purpose behind SLiP2000™ was to give the American gun industry the best lubricants and cleaners on the market while addressing both human health and environmental issues, and we have. SLiP2000™ has been able to provide non-toxic, non-hazardous and biodegradable gun lubricants and cleaners that out perform anything else on the market and our revolutionary new ideas are changing the industry by continuing to improve on faster and safer ways to clean your weapons.

http://www.slip2000.com/aboutus.html
http://www.slip2000.com/lubricant_info.html

This is the stuff I've been using for a while, along with their accompanying gease. It's even better than CLP for me so far.
http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000-EWL.html

Can I use that in my truck?

Sonofagun wrote:

AmirMortal wrote:

Our purpose behind SLiP2000™ was to give the American gun industry the best lubricants and cleaners on the market while addressing both human health and environmental issues, and we have. SLiP2000™ has been able to provide non-toxic, non-hazardous and biodegradable gun lubricants and cleaners that out perform anything else on the market and our revolutionary new ideas are changing the industry by continuing to improve on faster and safer ways to clean your weapons.

http://www.slip2000.com/aboutus.html
http://www.slip2000.com/lubricant_info.html

This is the stuff I've been using for a while, along with their accompanying gease. It's even better than CLP for me so far.
http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000-EWL.html

Can I use that in my truck?

I can't find the link right now, but I think they sell this stuff in motor oil weights too.