Just not digging this scope and I'm ready to give up. http://www.pyramydair.com/s/m/Beeman_Si ... Combo/3553

I have some cheap red dots but they have the wide mount and I need the narrow airgun/ 22 size.
I have an adapter on a 22 lever action but the scope sits up way too high and is no bueno.
I think I need the Close Quarters Combat set up for these rats anyway.

Should I hunt down iron sights for this or just get used to the scope?

What's wrong with it? Won't hold zero? The hard part for me was not being able to see through it correctly with my glasses. But it's not a problem after lasik surgery now.

inomaha wrote:What's wrong with it? Won't hold zero? The hard part for me was not being able to see through it correctly with my glasses. But it's not a problem after lasik surgery now.

Can't find zero. I shoot-adjust-shoot. Impact seems so random. I'm assuming the rifle is solid and the issue is the budget scope that came with it. I don't like scopes to start with and since most my shooting will be under 200 yards I think I can do without one.

Are you using the artillery hold or holding it locked up tight like a powder burner?

The mounts are more than likely the problem. Airgun recoil brutal. Put a piece of tape where the mounts are see how much they move during 50 shots.

Here's your solution if you don't want to mess around.
http://www.bkltech.com/BKl-1-6-Screw-Un ... kl-260.htm

Mason wrote:Are you using the artillery hold or holding it locked up tight like a powder burner?

I rest the gun on the forearm and have held it tight like a 30-06 and just steady to keep the cross-hairs on the mark. The only diff is holding it loosely will slap my collar bone.

curtism1234 wrote:The mounts are more than likely the problem. Airgun recoil brutal. Put a piece of tape where the mounts are see how much they move during 50 shots.

Here's your solution
http://www.bkltech.com/BKl-1-6-Screw-Un ... kl-260.htm

I'll try marking it with tape to rule out movement.

I would start with the scope mount and change it out for a Leapers/UTG one piece.

What type of pellets? If they are under 10 grains they are probably not going to group well. Beeman Kodiaks or H&N Barracudas seem to group well in almost all magnum spring guns.

I'm using the .177 barrel and Gamo 10.5g

I used the factory mounts off the large but POS Beeman scope and put on a large Bushnell Banner. Increased clarity for sure. The barrel has a backstop for the scope mounts to keep it from scooting back.

I really had to crank the adjustment up before I got zeroed in. This is 20-25 yards. With this scope I could keep most in a 2" circle but a wild flyer here and there. The rifle is heavy, 8.75#. A Garand is slightly more at 9.5#.

I hope the scope issue is solved with the scope swap.

Tell me about break in periods and accuracy. No barrel cleaning? Can I wrap it in burlap like a Stalingrad sniper?

I do wonder about how you describe your hold. Springer guns will recoil in a bizzare path: sorta back, then forward and both times a little to the side, as the spring turns a little. It's crucial that you hold it exactly the same every time, not too tight, and let it jump as it will. Maybe this is what they mean by "artillery hold"? A tight hold will magnify any slight differences in exactly where it lies on your arm or whatever. Just shifting from standing to kneeling will screw up your POI.

You may have a scope or mounts problem, but you may also have other problems.

Looking at that rifle, it appears that the stock was cut for a person shooting it with low iron sights, but you have a scope on it with a much higher line of the sight. In order to shoot well with any long gun, you need to have your cheek down hard on the comb of the stock. Shotgunners put it best when they say, "You need to have your wood (your head) on the wood (the comb of the stock). Rifle instructors want you to displace all the flesh of your cheek, so it is bone on the wood. With that high line of sight through the scope I believe I see, you're going to have just the side of your chin bearing on the stock. This is nowhere near as consistent, and inconsistent head positioning will be reflected in a change of Point of Impact.

With a really accurate AR15, with accurate ammo, at 200 yards that difference could be 4 to 6 inches.

Yeah, I kinda gave up in airguns for plinking for the same reason. If you can’t rely on the accuracy of the tool, all the fun goes out the window.

Recoil on airguns really mess up optics. I laugh when I read reviews on Amazon when guys trash-talk scopes as good for airguns but won’t stand the recoil of a real gun like AR’s. Uh... no.

Like takedown rifles, whatever optics you choose to put on a break-barrel airgun should probably be mounted on the barrel. Way too much variables introduced when mounting optics on the receiver with a moving barrel. My theory anyway since I gave up too soon to verify through testing.

Pellet choice and hold are the only thing that make spring guns accurate. Mine shoot dime size or better groups a 25 yards. The super light pellets pushed by Gamo are particularly abysmal for accuracy. Some Beeman Kodiaks and learning the “Artillery hold” will fix most accuracy issues.