I'd overhand chuck the gun at the wall if I didn't shoot my last steel challenge match so well.

I'm disassembling the gun and I have the common problem of the pin getting stuck. Whatever. I'll take it to a friend and have him mess with it. I don't have the necessary stuff to take it apart properly. He'll mess with it. Problem is that in my locking the pin back, something seems to have happened. I can drop the mag, but I can't rack the gun. The trigger isn't cocked, but the spring won't unlock now. I'll take it to someone I know on Tuesday, but I'm hoping it is something small that I can fix on my own. Ideas?

Here is an old thread that I started.

http://www.theliberalgunclub.com/phpBB3 ... =1&t=12155

Thanks. Hopefully it will help.

Welcome to more input from other people too.

There are some stickies at rimfirecentral.com that deal with the reassembly issues. Look under Ruger Semi Auto Pistols.

Edit: also,try here https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid= ... k&hl=en_US

The difficulty in the reassembly usually is linked to not having the hammer and the hammer strut in the right configuration before you lock the mainspring assembly. The link I sent you should help with this but basically you want to make sure the hammer is back when you insert the bolt but forward before you put the mainspring assembly back in. The instructions say you should do this by pointing the muzzle down and pulling the trigger with the magazine in. This never works for me on my 22/45. I usually need to push the hammer forward with a screwdriver or the like.

Then be sure the mainspring assembly is pushed all the way in with the pin protruding through the top of the receiver. Also be sure that the hammer strut is not caught above the mainspring assembly (I am betting this is your problem). You should be able to point the muzzle up and see the little strut dangling down. You want it to catch in the little 'cup' in the mainspring assembly.

You will know you have it right when you feel some spring tension when you close the mainspring assembly. If there is none, the strut is not seated in the cup and it is likely that you have trapped it above the assembly. This will cause the hammer to be stuck in the forward position so the slide will not rack. You will need to pull the mainspring assembly out and try again.

It gets easier. Trust me.

Welcome to owning a Ruger

Inquisitor wrote:Welcome to owning a Ruger

It's like one of those nefarious wire puzzles. Stokes your OCD embers.

The issue is that now I'm at a point where I can't fully open up the pin to attempt to pull it out because some part is stuck and I can't rack the bolt back because something isn't working correctly.

well, without it in hand, I can say:

1) Jiggle it
2) try to put it back all the way forward and pull the trigger
3) jiggle it some more
4) Repeat all of the above with the magazine in/out.

Yes, I am serious.

I managed to get the pin out, but I'm still messing with getting the barrel off. I got frustrated and stopped again.

You know how I relaxed? I cleaned my Glock.

inmediasres wrote:I managed to get the pin out, but I'm still messing with getting the barrel off. I got frustrated and stopped again.

You know how I relaxed? I cleaned my Glock.

Taking it apart is the easy process.

You know this, I am sure, but a mallet and a block of soft wood will help.

I clean my XDm for relaxation.

Rubber mallet.

I couldn't find the mallet so I'll just go buy a new one.

Going back together, that pin is getting a generous amount of either lubricated cleaner or oil.

One problem I have with my Mk III 22/45 is that the hole for the pin in the barrel needs to align with that in the frame. If the barrel is not seated all the way, this leads to a little misalignment that makes reinsertion of the pin more difficult. This is exacerbated by the tight fit between my barrel and the poly frame. I have been tempted to break out the Dremel but have resisted the urge so far.

It all gets easier with repeated disassemblies although I still need a mallet to get the barrel off. I think this is easier with the normal Mk IIIs than it is with the poly frame of the 22/45.

Just HIT IT...HARD.

Me 1 - Ruger 0

Dude!

After all that, I will probably do it again. The local gunsmith said to just bore snake the barrel and clean the ramp as best as I can, but not to take it apart in the first place because of how difficult it can be to put back together. I'll take it apart maybe a few times a year depending on how much I shoot it, but I won't do it with every cleaning.

I might have to open it up more though if I start considering some of the Volquartsen upgrades I want to buy.

Honest, it gets easier.

I take mine apart about every 500 rounds or so. Otherwise it's bore snake and q-tips.

You probably know the following so forgive me for running on.

The Volquartsen accurizing kit cleans the trigger up really well. If you don't like the mag disconnect safety you can order a kit for a Mk II but you will also have to get the MkII hammer bushing. You can also just get the VQ sear and a bushing from some guy on eBay but I really like the adjustable VQ trigger. There's also this guy in WIsconsin who sells blank-out pieces for the loaded chamber indicator if that offends your sensibilities.

For bling, look at the Altamont.com grips. I have them on my 22/45 and my Woodsman.

I already figured this all in when I bought the thing. I didn't buy the normal Mark III.

http://www.ruger.com/products/markIIICo ... odels.html

I do like Altamont grips and I'll probably be getting a set for my Smith revolver, but the ones that come stock on the Ruger are great. I bought this gun and shot Steel Challenge this past weekend. I immediately won the division and came in 10th overall. The other nine were all shooting either USPSA Open or Rimfire Open guns. I was in good company.

Nice. I'll be quiet now...

inmediasres wrote:I already figured this all in when I bought the thing. I didn't buy the normal Mark III.

http://www.ruger.com/products/markIIICo ... odels.html

Thas purdy.

It does feel weird shooting it though in that it's front heavy and has very little to no recoil at all with that bull barrel. I don't hold it like a normally would hold a pistol because there is so little recoil. I need to get better at shooting at the larger plates while in motion. I noticed it the most when I was shooting Accelerator.

I have not shot one with that barrel length. Mine is the KM512 (I think) -- 22/45 in stainless with 5.5 inch fluted bull barrel and removable grips. I did not really do any research before I bought it and it was indeed felicitous that I got the removable grips. Mine has the factory sights and I think I will leave it that way. I really don't want to put an optic on it.

My younger daughter, upon first seeing it, said "Dad, that looks like an assassin's gun."

With the shorter barrel, mine is not particularly front heavy and, as you say, has almost no recoil.

I love shooting it and training others to shoot with it. It is not intimidating but it has plenty of 'substance.' In fact, I think I'll take Friday off and go shoot it along with a new 10/22 that I am putting together out of spare parts now that I located a good used receiver.