(Re)Loading New Brass

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Thanks to Lurker, I’m going to start reloading .45-70. Since I have no ammo to start, I’m thinking of just buying new brass and starting from scratch. But many people suggest resizing new brass.

Given that I’m going to be using a Lee Loader to make ammo for a Henry single shot, what say you? (Lyman manual just
Arrived)

Re: (Re)Loading New Brass

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I don’t see why new brass should be resized. They make them to specs at the factory. It is only fired brass that expands to the chamber size that need to be resized back to specs. Or am I missing something?

I suspect if you run the new brass through the resizing die that they’d just slip in and out as if you weren’t accomplishing much (to warrant the beer).
"It is better to be violent, if there is violence in our hearts, than to put on the cloak of non-violence to cover impotence. There is hope for a violent man to become non-violent. There is no such hope for the impotent." -Gandhi

Re: (Re)Loading New Brass

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Brand new, unfired brass doesn't need to be resized unless your rifle is super finicky. Generally I pay the extra to get brass that comes with a bang-pew but since thats not your goal you should be able to just take new, unprimed brass and prime it, then load with powder and stick a bullet in the top then shoot away.

You may consider loading one without powder/primer to make sure it chambers with your setup.

Re: (Re)Loading New Brass

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shinzen wrote: Tue Feb 11, 2020 4:52 pm I like how lurker strongarmed you into buying the Henry by getting you setup reloading. That is damned near peak enabling right there.
This is why I block lurker for three days after I receive any money. ;-)

With respect to the OP, I've only bought new brass like four times. I sized them. They're still going, so no need yet for more new.

CDFingers
Crazy cat peekin' through a lace bandana
like a one-eyed Cheshire, like a diamond-eyed Jack

Re: (Re)Loading New Brass

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Starline. Discussion of it indicated that it was inexpensive and good quality. Downside is that the shape of the case down by the rim has a large radius that reduces case volume over Hornady or Winchester. Since I’m not trying to find max loads, that wasn’t an issue.

I got a call from the store where I bought the powder. They were the only ones I found with it in stock. Ironically, it’s the CCI primers that are now holding up the order.

Re: (Re)Loading New Brass

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If a person has enough success using the whack a mole system I just hope they might branch out and get a press. A good O frame press like the Lee cast iron press will last for ever and will produce excellent ammo. A person can really make cheap ammo and depending on how far they want to go with the hobby can make any caliber even 9mm far cheaper than factory ammo. And yes Starline
brass has been very good for me in the calibers that I have bought. I have not found a single bad primer pocket and I have bought in 500 rd lots for four different calibers some twice.

Re: (Re)Loading New Brass

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Of course, what they may learn from me is that I don’t follow through....

But for now I am.

Looking at the Lee Loader data http://leeloaderdata.com/data/4570.htm, it gives different powder weights in grains. It also says to use the dipper and to make sure it’s 3.1cc.

Is it correct to take from this that all the loads are a single scoop and the different weights represent different powder densities? Is it further correct to deduce that the different velocities with the same volumes represent different “power”for each powder?

Re: (Re)Loading New Brass

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You should really get a scale. Use the dippers to dump it on the scale. Do that until you have a feel for the dippers, then you can get fairly consistent loads. I use dippers for target hand gun loads but not for rifles. I weigh all those.

CDFingers
Crazy cat peekin' through a lace bandana
like a one-eyed Cheshire, like a diamond-eyed Jack

Re: (Re)Loading New Brass

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the scoops give what is called a "volumetric equivalent". this is only an approximation, and varies with things like powder density and cut. a grain is 1/7,000th of a pound, so you can do the conversion to micrograms if you like. i found it easier to just buy a scale in grains. your mileage may vary.
yes, different powders burn at different speeds and release more or less energy, so they're not interchangeable, you can't just swap them without some head-scratching and looking things up on tables.
i'm retired. what's your excuse?

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