Re: So, I signed up for a class

26
I like these:
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/carbon- ... arrow.html

Faster than aluminum, cheap enough that I wouldn't care if I ruin one. Not an issue, so far, though. My wife bought me a dozen for Xmas a couple of years ago and I haven't broken one yet. I shoot irregularly, sometimes almost every day, other times a couple of months without shooting, but I guess they're over 200 firings. I shoot at a 5-spot target at only 7 yards, so not much chance of clashing arrows together. I did nick one of the vanes, but I ignore that and it keeps working.

Maybe they're not good enough for serious competition, but I am nowhere good enough for serious competition, either, so they do fine.
IMR4227: Zero to 900 in 0.001 seconds

I'm only killing paper and my self-esteem.

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Re: So, I signed up for a class

27
One has to have some consistency before we can see the actual point of impact differences among different arrows. I think near the beginning of consciously working on improvement, arrows are not as important as other things, things which create the foundations of consistency over the long run. A good finger glove, that's needed.

For example, the "cant" of the bow. Cant is the lean of the bow away from the arrow so the arrow sort of rests in the rest in a little V. Nearer the beginning of improving, we cant our bows more. We think we're balancing the arrow in that V, but really we haven't noticed that it's our holding fingers that control how the arrow rests. Learning that requires learning how to separate neural instructions to each finger separately while holding at full draw.

So, time has to pass as our neural pathways develop themselves in response to the stimulus of our request to the fingers.

To me, beginning to learn how to improve flooded my brain with excessive data. That's when I began to separate things into manageable chunks. For example, I spent a year aligning my drawing elbow with my drawing fingers with the arrow rest with the point of aim.

After all this fooling around with learning how to learn and then applying that to shooting, I find it all works when I let it flow. I have to mess up a few shots first somehow. But at a certain moment I engage the flow. Of course one loses oneself there, so it takes tremendous concentration to remain lost--not as easy as it appears! :wtf: It's so easy to drop back into my body and notice something, like which eye I'm sighting with with them both open--then I miss the exact point of aim, sometimes by several inches. I admonish myself then shoot more.

A good shooting glove, a predictable bow, and sufficient arrows is about all you'll need until you start breaking nocks. Then you'll start to pick up those tools that will allow you to repair, then construct, arrows. I have a pile of dead arrows under my bench that I cannibalize for spare parts. I have a little tool box now for my archery tools, and in there are the few broadheads I've picked up.

I really don't have more than a couple hundred bucks into archery all told. Oh, guns. That's where my problem lies. "There's a hole in daddy's safe where the money goes..."

CDFingers
Crazy cat peekin' through a lace bandana
like a one-eyed Cheshire, like a diamond-eyed Jack

Re: So, I signed up for a class

30
Inquisitor wrote:I shoot all the same kind in a string. Eliminate variables. Especially important as I re learn how to shoot.
It may be worth investing in a bow square to check brace height (distance between your string and bow grip). Even if you're using the exact same setup, brace height can deviate. It can be caused by anything ranging from environmental factors to the number of twists you may have inadvertently applied to the string.

Changes in brace height will have an impact on both arrow velocity and accuracy. Shorter heights will result in higher velocities but will be less forgiving to shooter error (the string is driving the arrow forward for a longer duration of time, but any errors in form during that longer duration will also effect arrow flight). Longer heights have the opposite affect. Long story short, you may find that even with the same string, the brace height can change day to day. That's way it's always useful to do a quick check before you start.

Re: So, I signed up for a class

32
A bow square puts your brass bead on your string in the correct place. I had my archery shop put on my beads. Once they're on, no need for the square--unless you go through new bows like senorgrand goes through new hand guns.

CDFingers
Crazy cat peekin' through a lace bandana
like a one-eyed Cheshire, like a diamond-eyed Jack

Re: So, I signed up for a class

34
Sometimes it's hard to shoot, like with rain, or family, or what not. At those times I draw the bow and slowly let it off a few times, feeling the muscles work.

Because I shoot in my back yard it's quite easy to do it at least once a week. I aim for two or three. Usually works out two. But you get the point. The muscles develop slowly but need constant reminders to keep growing. Just shot this afternoon. At 27 yards I can hit a basketball-sized spot 95 out of 100 times, it appears.

CDFingers
Crazy cat peekin' through a lace bandana
like a one-eyed Cheshire, like a diamond-eyed Jack

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